Victoria Beanie

I've been really bored sitting on the couch, rehabbing from a badly sprained ankle. When the doctor told me that I should be off it for 7 to 10 days, I had to come up with something to do. So, with the design assistance of one of my favorite teenage "daughters", here is what I spent 2 of my 10 days doing...

The Victoria Slouchy Beanie - designed, in part by Vicki

Supplies:

Yarn - Bernat Softee Baby in Soft Red (it was all I had within reach!)

Size 7 Circular Needles, 16" (and double points in size 7 if desired)

Cable Needle

Stitch Marker

Embroidery or Yarn Needle

Pattern:

Cast on 118 stitches and work 1" in a K1, P1 rib.

After band is formed, begin working the following pattern refering to Chart 1 (cable) and Chart 2 (leaves). 

Row 1: Knit Chart 1 (cable), Knit Chart 2 (leaves) - for this row only K2Tog on the first stitch of Chart 2 (leaves). Repeat Charts 1 and 2 twice more (3 repeats of each chart total)

Since the charts cover different numbers of rows, it is important to keep track of each section independently. Work the charts in pattern until the hat reaches approximately 9" - you will have completed the leaves chart 5 times.

Chart 1 - Cable Pattern

Chart 2 - Leaves Pattern

 Begin Decrease using the following pattern:
Decrease Row 1 - continue to work the cable chart as previous. In each section where the leaves chart is worked K2, K2tog, K7, SSK, P, K2tog, K7, SSK, K2.
Decrease Row 2 - while working cable chart; in leaves section, K2, K2tog, K5, SSK, P, K2Tog, K5, SSK, K2.
Decrease Row 3 - while working cable chart; in leaves section, K2, K2Tog, K3, SSK, P, K2Tog, K3, SSK, K2.
Decrease Row 4 - while working cable chart; in leaves section, K2, K2Tog, K, SSK, P, K2Tog, K, SSK, K2.
Decrease Row 5 - while working cable chart; in leaves section K2, K3Tog, P, K3Tog, K2.
Decrease Row 6 - while working cable chart; in leaves section K3Tog, P, K3Tog.
Decrease Row 7 - while working cable chart; in leaves section K3tog.
Decrease Row 8 - starting in cable section P2Tog, P, work knit stitches as in cable chart, P, P2Tog, K (the stitch left from leaves section). Repeat this twice more, but stop row one stitch short
Decrease Row 9 - with last stitch from previous row P3tog, work knit stitches as in cable chart, P3tog. Repeat twice more.
Decrease Row 10 - P, K2Tog, K2, K2Tog. Repeat twice more.
Decrease Row 11 - K2Tog. Repeat until last stitch. Sew through stitches and bind off to create top of the hat.

Bitty Baby Wave Blanket

I have three granddaughters who have Bitty Babies and they are some of their favorite playmates, when they come here to visit they like to find Auntie Emily's Bitty Twins and play with them wrapping them in an old knitted wave afghan that was made for my girls.  I thought it was time to use up some of the stash yarn and make something they could play with at home that would be just the right size.

For this you will need some worsted weight yarn.  I used Caron Simply Soft in bright colors, and for the second baby blues with
Bernat Softee Baby yarn.
Size I or 5.5 mm hook
yarn needle to weave in ends

The wave pattern in made in multiples of 13 for the base chain, I used 91.  So for this size chain 91.

ROW 1:  Starting in the third chain from the hook DC in the next 4 sts, *(3 DC in the next st, then 1 DC in the next 5 sts., sk the next 2 ch sts., then 1 DC in the next 5 sts), repeat from * across.   At the end ch 3 and turn.
ROW 2:  Sk the first st, then 1 DC in the next 4 sts, *(3 DC in the next st, then 1 DC in the next 5 sts, sk the next 2 sts., then 1 DC in the next 5 sts), repeat from * across.  At the end of the row chain 3 and turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have completed 36 rows.  

I did 4 rows of each color to make a striped afghan, but you can make your blanket in any color combination that you like.  This is a great way to use up old yarn!!

Kelly the Giraffe crochet hat

I am making this hat for a new baby boy coming to our family this spring a great nephew, and decided to name it Kelly after one of our daughter's friends who LOVES giraffes.  This is a basic hat pattern with some added parts, and will see if I can also work up a moose and horse using the same base pattern.

For this I used Hometown USA yarn in Daytona Lemon
Los Angeles Tan
Billings Chocolate brown.
Size J or 6mm hook
yarn needle
buttons for nostrils and eyes

Size 0-3 months
For the bulky yarn it works best to make a magic ring then ch 2.
Round 1:  make 10 DC in the ring, sl st to the top of the first st and ch 2.
Round 2:  2 DC in each st around, sl sst to the top of the first st, ch 2. (20 DC)
Round 3:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (30 DC)
Round 4:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 4 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (36 DC)
Rounds 5-8: 1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (36 DC).
begin the first ear flap after round 8, ch 1.

Ear flaps.
Row 1:  1 SC in the next 6 sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 2:  SCD in the first 2 sts, 1 SC in the next 2 sts, SCD in the last 2 sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 3:  1 SC in each of the 4 sts across, ch 1 turn.
Row 4:  make 2 SCD sts across, ch 1 turn.
Row 5:  SCD and tie off.
count across 12 sts across the front of the hat and begin the 2nd ear flap.

Starting at the tip of either ear flap with Chocolate Brown, SC evenly around the base of the hat, when you get to the tip of the next ear flap ch 35 then work back up the chain, *sk the first 2 ch sts, then sl st in each st back up to the tip of the ear.  When you get back to the tip of the other ear flap ch 35 and repeat from the *, tie off and weave in end.

Ears.  make a magic loop with the Lemon color and ch 2.
Round 1:  make 10 DC in the loop, pull tight and sl st to the top of the first st, ch 1
Round 2:  1 SC in the first st, 2 HDC in the next st, 1 DC in the 3rd st, 1 DC 1 TC 1 DC in the 4th st, 1 DC in the 5th st, 2 HDC in the 6th st, 1 SC in the last 4 sts, sl st to the top of the first st, leave a long tail to sew on the ear.

Horns.  Starting with Chocolate brown, make a magic loop and ch 2.
Round 1:  make 8 DC in the loop, pull tight and sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2.
Round 2:  1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, tie off and switch to Lemon.
Round 3:  DCD in the first 2 sts, 1 DC in the next 4 sts, DCD in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the first st.
Round 4:  1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st. (6 DC).  After round 4 leave a long tail to sew on the ear.

Nose:  Using Tan chain 9,
Row 1:  sk the first st, make 1 SC in the next 8 sts, ch 1 turn.
Rows 2-3: 1 SC in each st across, ch 1 turn.
Row 4: SCD in the first 2 sts, 1 SC in the next 4 sts, SCD in the last two sts,
Row 5: 1 SC in each st across, ch 1 turn. (6 SC)
Row 6:  SCD in the first 2 sts, 1 SC in the next 2 sts, SCD in the last 2 sts, at the end of this row SC evenly around the outside of the nose and sl st to the top of the first st, tie off and leave a long tail to sew on the nose.

Sew on buttons.

Savory Crescent Chicken Squares

This recipe came from a dear friend who had us over for dinner one night, these were amazing and simple.  You can also use turkey too, so this is a great recipe for leftovers from Thanksgiving.  You can also make the chicken mixture up ahead and refrigerate it, then just heat it a little before you put it in the crescent rolls so it will cut down on baking time.

4 oz Cream cheese (can use 1/3 less fat cream cheese)

5 TBS butter or margarine

4 Cups cooked cubed chicken breast (about 2 lbs boneless, skinless)

1/4 cup milk

1/2 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. pepper

2 TBS chopped onion (or dry minced) or if you have picky eaters use onion powder.

2 cans crescent rolls (can use reduced fat rolls)

Sauce:  1 can mushroom soup mixed with 2/3 cup milk and warmed.  Or chicken gravy heated.

Melt margarine in fry pan - add chicken and onions (minced or powdered), stir in cream cheese, milk, salt and pepper.  Mix well.  Let cool a little.  Separate rolls into 8 rectangles and firmly press perforations to seal.  (Makes 4 squares), repeat with the second can of rolls.  

Spoon 1/2 cup chicken mixture into center of each square.  

Pull 4 corners to the top and seal the edges.  Place on cookie sheet and bake approx. 15 to 20 minutes, or until brown at 375 degrees.  After removing from oven spoon mushroom sauce or chicken gravy over the top.  

Jane's Chicken Sweater

It was -14 degrees this morning when we left at 8:30 to take Abby to school. It's just a wee bit warmer in the chicken coop at 14 degrees above zero. Jane had a little problem - no feathers from mating and too cold to get herself warm. So today's project was making Jane a chicken sweater. Here's how we pulled it together.

Materials: 

Pattons Classic Wool (just ends of a skein - we used maybe 1/8th of a skein)

2 large and 1 small button

Size H crochet hook

Note: Jane is a frizzle cochin, so this pattern is fitted for a small bantam breed. This pattern will not fit onto a laying hen without some major modification.

A very naked chicken who really needed a sweater.

Pattern:

Row 1: Chain 40

Row 2: Double Crochet into 38 stitches, Chain 1, Double Crochet into last stitch

Rows 3-10: Double Crochet

After row 10 break wool and weave in ends.

Straps: 

Row 1: Double Crochet into the first five stitches.

Row 2: Turn work and Double Crochet into Row 1

Row 3-10: Double Crochet

Row 11: Chain 6 and join chain to opposite side of strap (making a loop for a large button).

Repeat for a second strap on the last five stitches of the cape.

Button Tab:

In the middle 10 stitches of the cape, Double Crochet for 5 rows. Attach two large buttons to secure the loops.

I also chained a strap 6 stitches long to go around behind Jane's legs. She did not appreciate it, but the sweater stays on better.

It also is very helpful to have a three year old who will "sort" your buttons and play with the chicken in between fittings. Thanks Olivia!

Evil Minion Ear Flap Hat

My daughter Melissa has been making crochet minion hats for her kids and friends, when she was home for Thanksgiving she was going through my stash and found a purple that was perfect for an evil minion hat.  She is very good at making hats but not fond of writing out patterns, so I am doing this one just for her.  You can use this pattern to make a yellow minion as well.  With the bulky yarn this hat works up very quickly.

For this hat you will need the following:
Size J or 6 mm hook
Size I or 5.5 mm hook
Lion Brand Hometown USA in the following colors:
Minneapolis purple or Denver Rocky Mountain Violet
Oakland Black
Lion Brand Homespun Yarn in Purple Haze
Lion Brand Vanna's choice in:
silver grey
white
chocolate

This pattern can also be used to make a regular minion by using the following colors:
Lion Brand Hometown USA:

Pittsburgh Yellow
Oakland Black
Fort Worth Blue
Lion Brand Vanna's choice in:
Silver grey
white
chocolate

For a preschool age size:
using your J hook, make a magic loop with Minneapolis purple.
Round 1:  10 DC in the loop, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2.
Round 2:  2 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2. (20 DC)
Round 3:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next st, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2. (30 DC)
Round 4:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 2 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2. (40 DC)
Round 5:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 3 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2. (50 DC)
Round 6:  1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first stitch, tie off and change to Oakland Black.
Round 7-8:  1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first stitch, ch 2, after round 8 tie off and switch back to Minneapolis purple.
Rounds 9-12: 1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first stitch, ch 2, after round 12 ch 1 and begin the first ear flap.

Ear flap 1:
Row 1: 1 SC in the next 10 sts., ch 1 and turn.
Row 2:  SCD in the first 2 stitches, 1 SC in the next 6 sts, SCD in the last two stitches, ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: 1 SC in each of the 8 stitches across, ch 1 turn.
Row 4:  SCD in the first 2 stitches, 1 SC in the next 4 sts, SCD in the last two stitches, ch 1 turn.
Row 5: 1 SC in each of the 6 stitches across, ch 1 turn.
Row 6:  SCD in the first 2 stitches, 1 SC in the next 2 sts, SCD in the last two stitches, ch 1 turn.
Row 7:  1 SC in each of the 4 stitches across, ch 1 turn.
Row 8:  make two SCD stitches, ch 1 turn.
Row 9: make one SCD and tie off.

for the second ear flap count over 19 stitches across the front and attach your yarn, ch 1 and use the instructions above.

Finishing the bottom of the hat:
Using Oakland Black and starting at the tip of the ear flap, ch 1 and SC evenly around the bottom edge of the hat, sl st to the top of the first stitch and tie off.  Braids can be made in your choice of color combinations of the purple, black, or purple haze, but if you use the thinner yarn (purple haze) just cut an extra strand to make your braids even.   Each braids is made with twelve strands cut at 36 inches each.

One eyed Minion:
using an I or 5.5mm hook, make a magic loop with Black for the pupil, ch 1 and make 10 HDC in the loop, pull it tight and sl st to the top of the first stitch and tie off the black, switch to chocolate brown.
Round 2:  Make 2 DC in each st around, (20 DC), tie off and switch to white.
Round 3:  Make 2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next, repeat around, (30 DC).  Tie off and switch to silver grey.
Round 4: 1 SC in each st around, (30 SC), ch 1.
Round 5 is worked on the inside loop only, make 1 HDC in each st around (30 HDC), tie off leaving a long tail to sew on the eye.

To make a two eyed Minion using the I or 5.5 mm hook, make a magic loop with black and ch 1, make 10 SC in the loop and pull it tight, sl st to the top of the first st and tie off, switch to chocolate brown.
Round 2: make 2 HDC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, tie off and switch to white. (20 HDC)
Round 3:  Make 2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, tie off and switch to silver grey.
Round 4: 1 SC in each st around, (30 SC), ch 1.
Round 5:  working in the inside loop only, make 1 HDC in each st around (30 HDC), tie off leaving a long tail to sew on the eye.  Since your tie off string is on the outside loop weave it back down to the base of the eye with your needle and sew the eye on the center front of the hat working in the outside loop of round 4.

Crazy Hair:
Using the Purple Haze and a dvd case, wrap the case 100 times and tie the yarn opposite the indent to open, (it will make it easier to cut there) tie the bundle with 2 long strands that will be used to tie the hair to the top of the hat then you can pull them up through with your hook, clip them down to match the rest.  Make sure to tie the bundle extra tight.  This yarn tends to fray so it looks better and better as the hat is worn.

Child Size:
Using Minneapolis Purple and a J hook,
Magic ring, chain 2 and make 10 DC in the ring, pull tight and sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2
Round 2:  2 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2. (20 DC)
Round 3:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (30 DC).
Round 4:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 2 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (40 DC).
Round 5:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 3 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (50 DC).
Round 6:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 9 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, tie off and switch to Oakland Black and ch 2(55 DC).
Rounds 7-8:  1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (55 DC).  After round 8 tie off and switch to Minneapolis purple.
Rounds 9-13:  1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (55 DC).  After round 13 start on the first ear flap.

For Child and Adult Ear flaps:
Row 1:  1 SC in the next 12 sts, ch 1 and turn.
Row 2:  SCD in the first 2 sts, 1 SC in the next 8 sts, SCD in the last two sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 3:  1 SC in the next 10 sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 4:  SCD in the first 2 sts, 1 SC in the next 6 sts, SCD in the last two sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 5:  1 SC in the next 8 sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 6:  SCD in the first 2 sts, 1 SC in the next 4 sts, SCD in the last two sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 7: 1 SC in the next 6 sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 8:  SCD in the first 2 sts, 1 SC in the next 2 sts, SCD in the last two sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 9:  1 SC in the next 4 sts, ch 1 turn.
Row 10: make 2 SCD, ch 1 turn.
Row 11: SCD, tie off and weave in the end.  To start the second ear flap count 22 sts across the front for child size and 25 sts across the front of the hat for adult and start the second ear flap using the above instructions.

Size Teen or Adult:
Magic ring, ch 2 and make 10 DC in the ring, pull tight and sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2.
Round 2:  2 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (20 DC).
Round 3:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (30 DC).
Round 4:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 2 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (40 DC).
Round 5:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 3 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (50 DC).
Round 6:  2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 4 sts, repeat around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (60 DC).   Tie off and switch to Oakland Black.
Rounds 7-8:  1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (60 DC).  After round 8 tie off and switch to Minneapolis Purple.
Rounds 9-14: 1 DC in each st around, sl st to the top of the first st, ch 2 (60 DC).  After round 13 start on first ear flap.

Grandma's Log Cabin Hat

In between all the busyness of the holidays and trying to open a medical clinic at the Crisis Pregnancy Center I work at, I found time to sneak this in and it reminds me of growing up in the big log cabin.

Materials:
Paton's Classic Wool worsted weight in Natural Mix
Size 7 circular needles

Pattern:
 Cast on 90 stitches, join and place marker. Work 7 rows in Knit 3, Purl 3 rib.

Lace Pattern:
Row 1: *K 1, YO, K2tog, SSK, YO;* Repeat
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: *K 1, YO, K2tog, SSK, YO;* Repeat
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: *K 1, YO, K2tog, SSK, YO;* Repeat
Row 5: Knit
Row 7: *K 1, YO, K2tog, K5, SSK, YO;* Repeat
Row 8: Knit
Row 9: *K 2, YO, K2tog, K3, SSK, K1;* Repeat
Row 10: Knit
Row 11: *K 3, YO K2tog, K, SSK, K2;* Repeat
Row 12: Knit
Row 13: *K 4, YO, K3tog, YO, K3;* Repeat
Row 14: Knit

Repeat Rows 1-14 three times.

Begin decrease as follows:
Row 1: *K2, K2tog, YO, K3tog, YO, SSK, K*; repeat
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: *K, K2tog, YO, K3tog, YO, SSK*; repeat
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: *K3tog, YO, K3tog, YO*; repeat
Row 6:  K2tog, K2; repeat.
Row 7: K2tog, K; repeat
Row 8: K2tog. Sew through remaining stitches and secure.